There’s something we’ve all been ignoring. It’s simple in form but devastatingly important in structure. Who knew a collar said so much? Now you might not know how to speck a collar or how many stitches are in it but one thing we can all agree on is that we know when we’ve been dealt a bad one. Bad collars look frumpy, fall flat, and feel uncomfortable. And that’s why at Grana, we geek out about them every single day.
The amount of time and effort put into a collar’s design is reflected in how it looks, the way it drapes and most importantly the way it feels. If you’ve never noticed your collar before don’t feel bad, most of us are guilty of collar negligence.
Break Down of the Anatomy
Your collar is made up of two fabrics, the stand and the fall. The stand is the fabric that supports the collar, as you may have guessed from its name, it’s the pillar of the structure. The fall is typically the area of the collar that most people refer to when they mention the “collar” of a garment. And the line on the collar where the fabric rolls over is, believe it or not, called the roll line.
Now at this point you may be thinking to yourself “maybe there’s a reason no one dissects collars” but we beg to differ because how your collar looks and feels says a lot about how it was made – and how things are made is kind of something we’re into.
A really great collar needs to be smooth and wrinkle-free that’s why we cut our fall slightly longer than the stand. With this little bit of easing, it helps your fall roll over and keep its shape.
Silk is a fabric that can crease and fold so we took extra measures to insure that the collar of our silk stays true to it’s design. In order to keep the collar down without the bottom seam turning up like a fruit roll up, we added something called under stitching. Our designers have discovered that approximately 200 is the perfect amount needed in the under stitching to make a great silk collar. That’s two hundred of those little guys hiding around her neck.
A Hug Not a Noose
A collar needs to have the perfect equation of presence around your neck. No one wants to feel like their collar is slowly wrestling them to unconsciousness. It takes a lot of calculating to get those measurements to be exact but we’ve cracked the code.
Upside Down Pyramids
Now not everyone is going to notice the difference between the 202 stitches vs. 203 and most probably don’t know how to tell if a collar is specked properly. But something we can all see is how the points of the collar look on a final product. On our silk it was so important to us to have those little upside down pyramids dagger sharp that we added three diagonal cross stitches inside the fabric across the points to nip and tuck them into the right shape.
The collar doesn’t have an easy life – it needs to hold its shape and have a clean sharp presence without being too noticeable or overbearing. It’s constantly gone unrecognised for its valiant effort of making you look so stylish and smart. So the next time you do up the final button on your shirt give those little pyramids a fist pump. They’re doing a great job.fabrics / by Grana / 04.07.16